Tsuru No. 051 — Why are some tea plants covered before harvest?
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Why are some tea bushes covered before harvest?
From reduced light to revealed umami: understanding the shading of Gyokuro, Tencha, and Matcha.
A few weeks before certain Japanese harvests, the landscape changes. Structures, nets, or covers appear above the tea bushes, gradually plunging the young shoots into semi-darkness.
The practice seems almost contradictory. A plant needs light to carry out photosynthesis. Why would a producer deliberately reduce this light at the very moment when the new leaves are developing?
Because they are not simply trying to grow a leaf.
They are trying to change its balance before it is even picked.
I. Covering a tea bush is not simply protecting it from the sun
When discovering a shaded Japanese plantation for the first time, one might think that the nets are primarily used to prevent the leaves from burning or to protect the tea bushes from the heat.
That is not their main function.
In the Japanese cultivation method known as oishita, the new shoots are deliberately deprived of a significant amount of light before harvest. Historically, various natural materials have been used, notably mats, reeds, or straw. Today, producers also use synthetic nets that allow them to more precisely control the intensity of the shading.
The principle remains the same, however: deliberately altering the light environment of the tea bush.
The plant continues to live, breathe, grow, and nourish its leaves. But it must now function with much less light.
This constraint then triggers a series of physiological and metabolic adaptations.
II. The leaf first adapts to the lack of light
Chlorophyll is one of the pigments that allow plants to capture the light energy needed for photosynthesis.
When the available light decreases, the tea bush adapts its functioning. In leaves from shaded crops, the chlorophyll concentration generally increases.
This is one of the reasons why the leaves intended for certain Gyokuro and Tencha take on a particularly deep green color.
This intense green is therefore not merely an aesthetic characteristic.
It partly reveals the conditions in which the leaf developed.
Shade does not artificially color the leaf. It changes the conditions under which the tea bush develops, and the plant then adapts its photosynthetic system.
After harvest, processing obviously also plays a major role. Steaming, drying, optional rolling, storage, and preparation all influence the final color.
A very green tea is therefore never automatically a high-quality tea.
III. The balance between amino acids and catechins
The sensory appeal of shading becomes especially apparent when examining the composition of the leaf.
The tea bush naturally contains several free amino acids. Among them is theanine, one of the most important compounds in understanding Japanese teas.
Theanine is primarily synthesized in the roots and then transported to the young shoots.
When leaves are heavily exposed to light, their metabolism favors certain pathways that lead, in particular, to the formation of polyphenols and catechins.
Catechins are not undesirable compounds. They fully contribute to the tea's flavor profile, particularly its bitterness and astringency.
But when light is greatly reduced before harvest, this balance changes.
Young shoots from shaded crops generally contain more free amino acids and a lower proportion of certain catechins than comparable leaves grown in full light.
The result is often a smoother, rounder cup with more pronounced umami.
Shade does not "create" umami
This distinction is essential.
It is sometimes said that shading is used to "produce theanine." The reality is more complex.
Theanine already exists in the tea bush. Shading primarily affects its metabolism and the balance between the different compounds that accumulate in the young leaf.
And above all, the umami of a tea never depends on a single molecule.
Theanine, glutamate, aspartate, and other constituents interact together and contribute to the final perception.
IV. Why does shaded tea often seem less astringent?
Astringency is that dry or tightening sensation that can be felt on the tongue, gums, or inside the mouth.
It is notably linked to the polyphenols present in the tea.
By reducing light exposure during the development of the young shoots, the producer therefore indirectly alters the relationship between the compounds that provide umami and those that contribute to astringency.
This is why a Gyokuro can produce a sensation that is almost bewildering for someone discovering this family: a concentrated, smooth, vegetal, sometimes marine, and extremely umami-rich liquor.
This does not mean, however, that Sencha is an inferior version of Gyokuro.
Their flavor balance is simply different.
V. Sencha, Kabusecha, Gyokuro, and Tencha: four different paths
Japanese tea families become much easier to understand when two things are separated: cultivation before harvest and processing of the leaf after picking.
Sencha
Traditionally grown without prolonged shading. It often offers more vegetal freshness, liveliness, and more noticeable astringency.
Kabusecha
Shaded for a shorter period. It often provides an interesting balance between the liveliness of Sencha and the smoothness of heavily shaded teas.
Gyokuro
Heavily shaded before harvest. It seeks a very rich umami profile that is smooth, deep, and particularly concentrated.
Tencha
Produced from shaded leaves. After steaming, the leaves are dried without rolling. Tencha is the traditional raw material for Matcha.
The distinction between Gyokuro and Tencha is particularly important.
Both can come from heavily shaded tea bushes, but their processing after harvest differs.
Gyokuro is rolled.
Tencha is not.
Once prepared and sorted, Tencha can be ground into an extremely fine powder. This powder is what is called Matcha.
Therefore, saying that Matcha is simply "ground green tea" is very incomplete.
Its identity begins even before the leaf is harvested.
VI. Shading also transforms the aroma
The differences between shaded tea and tea grown in full light do not only concern umami or astringency.
The light environment also influences many aromatic precursors.
Shaded Japanese teas can thus develop what is sometimes called ooika, the characteristic aroma associated with cultivation under cover.
Depending on the case, tasters may describe impressions of greenery, seaweed, vegetal broth, young shoots, or marine notes.
These words obviously do not refer to ingredients present in the tea.
They are used solely to describe aromatic sensations.
Furthermore, not all shaded teas develop exactly the same profile.
The cultivar, soil, climate, duration of cover, level of shading, maturity of the shoots, and processing all modify the result.
"The longer a tea is shaded, the better it is."
At first glance, the reasoning seems logical.
If shade increases certain amino acids, enhances the greenness of the leaf, and reduces certain catechins, then more shade should theoretically produce an even better tea.
But a plant is not a recipe in which it would suffice to continually increase one ingredient.
Greatly reducing light constitutes a constraint for the tea bush. When this constraint becomes too intense or too prolonged, it can limit growth, reduce yield, and affect the plant's reserves.
The answer also depends on the cultivar, the season, the condition of the plantation, the date the cover is applied, and the intensity of that cover.
Finally, a high level of amino acids is never enough to define the quality of a tea on its own.
The goal is not to create the maximum amount of shade, but to achieve the balance desired by the producer.
VII. Shading is a deliberate constraint
This practice allows us to look at tea cultivation from a different angle.
The producer does not always seek to provide the tea bush with the conditions that allow it to produce the greatest possible quantity of leaves.
On the contrary, they may alter its environment to direct the characteristics of the future harvest.
Shading reduces the available light energy. Photosynthesis is altered, growth may slow down, and the plant's reserves may be more heavily drawn upon.
This is precisely why the producer's experience is essential.
They must choose when the cover begins.
They must choose its duration.
They must choose its intensity.
And they must adapt these decisions to the cultivar, the season, and the condition of the plantation.
Two plantations using the same type of net will therefore never automatically produce the same tea.
VIII. The cultivar remains decisive
Shading never erases the genetics of the tea bush.
Many cultivars are used in Japan. Each has its own agronomic, aromatic, and sensory characteristics.
Some are particularly appreciated for their umami-rich productions, others for their freshness, yield, resistance, or aromatic profile.
Simply speaking of a "shaded tea" without knowing the cultivar is therefore only telling part of the story.
IX. A Gyokuro is not simply a Sencha left in the dark
This formula helps explain a common confusion.
Sencha, Kabusecha, and Gyokuro share several processing steps: harvesting young shoots, steaming, rolling, and drying.
But the leaves that arrive at the workshop have not had the same history.
At the time of harvest, their composition is already different.
A part of the tea's character has therefore already been shaped in the field.
Altitude, climate, season, cultivar, shoot maturity, and cultivation practices already accompany the leaf before its processing.
Compare light and shade in your cup
If you have a Sencha and a Gyokuro, do not immediately taste them as two competing products.
Instead, prepare them as two different expressions of the same tea bush.
Start by observing the dry leaves.
Look at their color.
Breathe in their fragrance.
Then prepare each tea according to the producer's instructions. For Gyokuro, much cooler water is often used, frequently around 50 to 60°C depending on the desired result.
Do not ask first which one you prefer.
Instead, look for four sensations:
smoothness — umami — astringency — length on the palate.
Then smell the wet leaves again.
The story of shade then becomes much easier to understand.
X. And Matcha in all this?
Today, Matcha is probably the best-known form of shaded Japanese tea.
Yet, its success has also created a great deal of confusion.
Traditional Matcha comes from Tencha.
The young shoots are grown under cover before harvest. They are then steamed to limit enzymatic oxidation, and then dried without being rolled like Sencha or Gyokuro.
After various finishing operations, the Tencha can be ground extremely finely.
In a Matcha, shading is particularly important because the leaf is not simply steeped and then removed.
The powder itself is suspended in water and consumed.
Smoothness, bitterness, astringency, texture, and umami therefore become directly perceptible.
This is also why a very green powder is never enough to prove the quality of a Matcha.
Color provides a clue.
Never a verdict.
XI. Why do we not shade all Japanese teas?
Because astringency, liveliness, and freshness are not flaws to be eliminated.
A great Sencha can precisely be remarkable thanks to the tension between smoothness, vegetal freshness, slight bitterness, and astringency.
Transforming all teas exclusively to seek umami would be to reduce an immense sensory diversity to a single criterion.
Kabusecha is particularly interesting in this regard.
Its shorter shading often allows it to retain part of the liveliness of Sencha while developing more smoothness.
It is not simply an imperfect intermediate step between Sencha and Gyokuro.
It is a family with its own balance.
Key takeaways
XII. A leaf already tells its tea before it is picked
Shading reminds us of something essential.
We often speak of tea as if its production began when the leaves arrived at the workshop.
In reality, part of its identity already exists.
Before harvest, the tea bush has experienced a soil, rains, temperatures, an altitude, a season, an exposure, and the hand of a producer.
For certain Japanese teas, this hand consists precisely of removing part of the light.
Not to weaken the leaf.
But to change its balance.
A few weeks later, this decision will be found in a deeper color, a different relationship between amino acids and catechins, and that sensation of umami so characteristic of certain Gyokuro.
Between the full light of Sencha and the deep shade of Gyokuro, there is therefore not a scale ranging from worst to best.
There are several intentions.
Several balances.
And several ways to let the same plant speak: Camellia sinensis.
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Tsuru 鶴 Collection — Heading for Tea
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